Nestled underneath the Metra’s Davis Street stop is Evanston’s hidden gem: Alcove, an upscale restaurant with American-inspired cuisine. Despite its hidden location, even late on a chilly Sunday evening in February, Alcove drew a crowd. People enjoyed the atmosphere of sophistication—dimmed lighting and soft jazz— the perfect prelude to the meal itself. With an eye on what’s in season, Alcove’s menu constantly changes. I tried what their February menu offered. Here’s my review:
To start, I tried a special that evening: a cream of asparagus soup with butter-poached crab. The soup had a smooth consistency and a strong, rich flavor. Tender and crunchy crab mixed throughout the dish added texture. I was scooping spoonful after spoonful and scraping the bowl even after I had finished.
Next, the waiter brought a small dish of green apple sorbet to cleanse our palates. Its sweet, cold sensation overwhelmed the leftover warmth in my mouth. The green apple flavor was sweet without being too tart or bitter. As someone who typically isn’t a fan of green apples, I was surprised to enjoy this dish.
For my main course, I tried the pan-seared Scottish salmon. Charred to a crisp, the perfectly cooked salmon sat on a bed of risotto. Layers of texture added depth to the dish, from the pasta itself to the soft crunch of the peas dispersed throughout it. A sweet, buttery sauce underneath the risotto paired perfectly with the pea flavor. All parts of the dish could be eaten and enjoyed separately, but, when paired together, each flavor elevated the tastiness of one another.
Finally, I finished the meal with the butterscotch and Honeycrisp apple bread pudding. A slight crunch on the pudding’s outside broke through to a moist consistency inside, filling my mouth with sweet chunks of apple and subtle notes of butterscotch. A scoop of sabayon marsala gelato and a drizzle of marsala creme anglaise sauce topped off the dish. Melting from the warmth of the bread pudding, the gelato cut through the pudding’s sweetness. This dessert managed to achieve a level of richness and decadence without feeling too heavy.
I left Alcove knowing that I would return soon. Whether a birthday dinner spot, a parents’ weekend destination, or a special occasion venue, Alcove is a must-try for both local residents and visitors.