Tenleytown has no shortage of Tex-Mex restaurants to enjoy.
Four such restaurants sit within three block of each other on Wisconsin Avenue: Bandit Taco, Chipotle, District Taco and Guapos. Bandit Taco is the easiest to miss, squeezed inconspicuously between a martial arts school and a barber shop.
But once you know it's there, Bandit Taco is hard to pass up; I have gone for brunch, lunch, dinner and dessert. The huge menu, reasonable prices and quick service make this a top-notch choice for Tex-Mex in northern Washington, D.C.
Carryout, Convenience and Carnitas
I suppose bandits are usually in a hurry, running away with sacks full of priceless artwork (or something of that nature?). So it makes sense that the service at Bandit Taco is quick. I've never had to wait long, even during the lunch rush. It's a breeze to order online and pick up food to go.
As the weather in D.C. starts to warm up for the spring, it's always pleasant to sit at Bandit's outdoor patio. Inside the dining room, Latin pop fills the air. Sunshine ricochets in a rainbow off five-foot tiers of every imaginable Jarritos flavor, fizzing enticingly in tall glass bottles.
The atmosphere is so jovial it's no wonder that every seat in the dining room is full whenever I stop by.
Tortas for Breakfast
It's hard to overstate the merits of a good breakfast taco. Fortunately, Bandit Taco offers a breakfast menu from ten to three. Savoring a tortilla full of scrambled eggs, melty mozzarella and fried pinto beans is a great way to start off your day.
But my favorite dish here is the breakfast torta. It has the same ingredients as a breakfast taco served on an uncommonly delicious telera roll. On top of all that, a dollop of mild guacamole and a drizzle of poblano sauce add freshness and a slight hint of spice.
Proteins here include spicy fried chorizo, adobo chicken, and more common offerings like bacon and steak. Plenty of equally wonderful vegetarian options grace the menu as well.
Burritos, Bowls and Baja
Speaking of vegetarian dishes, I recommend the wild mushroom burrito bowl. The mushrooms themselves are an especially rich sautéed crimini. The flavor is magnificent; the closest thing I can compare it to is a black truffle.
The standard fixings of white rice, pinto beans, grated cheddar, shredded romaine, sour cream and pico de gallo accompany the mushrooms in this light and enlivening entree. I always wash it down with a bottle of horchata. For the uninitiated: imagine a cold glass of milk with vanilla, cinnamon and brown sugar mixed in. It's worth making the trip to Bandit Taco for this refreshment alone.
Terrific Tres Leches
Many Tex-Mex restaurants do not serve dessert. (Chipotle: I'm looking at you.) Thankfully, Bandit Taco is not one of those restaurants.
I am partial to the tres leches cake served here. Shredded coconut adorns sponge cake soaked in sweetened, condensed milk. The texture is crumbly and moist, but not soggy. It's the perfect balance of sweet, light and airy confection.
All the Tex-Mex joints in this neighborhood are good in their own right. Even so, Bandit Taco stands out. Tenleytown is all the more fortunate for its existence.