The following recipe and excerpt for Apfelstrudel (Apple Strudel) are from “German Heritage Baking” by Heidrun Metzler. It’s currently available on Heidrun Metzler’s website.
Apfelstrudel is often associated with German and Austrian baking. Growing up in the state of Hessen, near Frankfurt, I was used to apple cakes in abundance, but when venturing south into Bavaria and Austria, it was always a treat to see more and more strudels in the cafés. There is nothing like going into the café at four o’clock in the afternoon to the greeting of delicate pastry and apple cinnamon in the air. Whipped cream is always served along with strudel, but an alternative favorite of mine is vanilla sauce. Though apple is among the most well-known fillings, strudel dough lends itself to a variety of fillings. Not only are there fruit, nut, poppy seed, and cheese fillings but also vegetables with béchamel sauce, ham and cheese, or ground beef with onions and peppers. Strudel dough is very versatile, and this beautiful pastry can be used for dessert or dinner.
When I started writing my cookbook, adding strudel was not part of my plan. I thought perhaps it would require too much patience, and stretching the dough is intimidating. Nevertheless, when I started telling my friends and acquaintances the book was finished, many of them asked: “Is there an apple strudel recipe?” Having this much request, I made the decision to include one.
I think of the strudel dough as a shell that keeps the filling together. To make this fine, pliable dough, Italian pasta flour (available online) is recommended. The recipe provides methods to prepare the dough either by hand or with a stand mixer. After preparing the dough, it rests under a warm pot for thirty minutes, then it must be stretched to avoid a thick texture and doughy taste inside the roll. The stretching process of drawing and pulling out the dough is delicate, and while holes that occasionally tear can be fixed, these patches stay somewhat thicker. So, it is best to aim for a steady, slow stretch so as to repair the dough as little as possible. Once the dough is stretched, it is filled and rolled. To create the thin, flaky outer layer of the baked strudel, the last third of the dough is left bare of filling and is buttered only instead.
There are two techniques for stretching the dough into the big, thin rectangle: both are implemented. One of the techniques explains how to stretch with palms turned down; the other explains how to stretch with palms turned up. In both techniques, it is crucial to pull the dough in a smooth motion and with a gentle touch.
Apfelstrudel (Apple Strudel)
Ingredients
For dough:
For filling:
Instructions
- Soak the raisins for the filling in rum. This can be done several hours beforehand.
- In a skillet over medium heat, roast the breadcrumbs in the butter to golden brown and set aside until it is time to fill the dough in step 9.
- Prepare to make the dough: Fill a large pot one-third full of water, cover, and bring to a boil. Turn off burner but leave the hot water in the pot to keep it heated until the pot is needed in step 4 when the dough rests.
- Make the strudel dough, either working by hand or with a stand mixer.
- Set aside ¼ cup of the measured flour for use as needed while working the dough. Sift the remaining flour onto a large marble or wooden board. Form a well in the middle and sprinkle the salt around the edge. Sprinkle the sugar over the flour. Add the egg and vanilla into the well. Heat the water for 20 to 25
seconds in the microwave to lukewarm and then add the vinegar to the water. Using the tip of a plastic dough scraper, stir the egg in the well as if gently scrambling. With the dough scraper in one hand and the water mixture in the other, slowly and at a pace the flour can absorb, work the water mixture and the egg and vanilla into the flour; pour a little water into the well, collapse in some of the flour, and mix. Continue mixing and adding water until the dough starts to stick together. Then begin to knead by hand. - Dust hands and the kneading surface with flour. Brush off excess flour with your hand so the board is sparsely covered. Knead the dough until it becomes smooth, about 10 to 15 minutes. If the dough is too sticky, switch back to the dough scraper, then use hands again. Work the dough with the heel of your hands as well as with a flat hand. Flour hands as needed to keep dough from sticking, but only sparingly. The goal is to get a smooth, elastic dough that doesnât stick but still looks wet and is pliable. As the dough gets worked, it will become more pliable as the gluten is activated. Test the dough by pulling it gently and slowly with your thumb and two fingers. If the dough stretches easily without tearing, it is time to form it into a ball. Then fetch the heated pot, pour out the hot water, and dry it. Place the pot upside down over the ball of dough and let rest for 30 minutes.
- Add the dry ingredients into the bowl. Heat the water for 20 to 25 seconds in the microwave to lukewarm and then add the vinegar to the water. To begin mixing, first work in the bowl by hand; a strong mixer may spill flour out. Make a well in the dry ingredients and add the egg and vanilla and begin to add the water mixture slowly in increments. With a stiff plastic spatula in one hand and the water mixture in the other, slowly and at a pace the flour can absorb, work in the water mixture and the egg and vanilla; pour a little water into the well, collapse in some of the flour, and mix. Continue mixing and adding water until the dough starts to stick together. Once almost all water is incorporated, switch to mixing with the stand mixer on medium speed for 8 minutes, then form the dough into a ball. Fetch the heated pot, pour out the hot water, and dry it. Place the pot upside down over the ball of dough and let rest for 30 minutes.
- Peel, core, and quarter the apples. If chopping by hand, slice each apple quarter in half lengthwise, gat
her a couple of slices together, and start chopping down the length of the slices, cutting pieces about â to ¼ inch thick; the width comes out to be about 1 inch. If using a stand mixer, fit the mixer with a large-size slicer or julienne disc. Cut the apple quarters crosswise to achieve smaller chunks; that way, after slicing, the pieces will be about 1 inch wide by â to ¼ inch thick. (Smaller shredding discs will make the apple pieces too small, and the apples will cook down too much.) - Place the apple pieces into a large mixing bowl. Add the lemon or lime juice and stir to coat. Add the sliced almonds, cinnamon, golden raisins (drain away the rum before adding, see note at end of recipe), vanilla, and almond liqueur or almond extract. Mix thoroughly. Dust the cornstarch over the apple mixture. Mix again and set aside. To avoid juice collection, wait to add the sugar until just before the filling is spread onto the stretched dough in step 13.
- Prepare a towel for rolling and stretching the dough: On a large table or counter, place a smooth, tightly woven cotton dish towel, 26 x 19 inches or larger, and dust with flour. Cover the entire towel and spread evenly. Wipe off excess.
- Roll and stretch the dough: Place the dough in the middle of the towel, and with a rolling pin, starting from the middle, push out and away in both directions, aiming for the sides of the towel. Push the dough longer and wider rather than pressing down when rolling. The dough only needs to resemble a smaller rectangle in the shape of the towel at this stage. Next, you will stretch the dough by hand until it is approximately 24 x 17 inches in size.
There are two techniques to stretch the dough; each starts by gently lifting the dough and sliding both hands underneath, beginning from the middle. With the palms-down technique, slightly close your hands, fingertips pointing down and away from the dough so as not to tear it. With the palms-up technique, turn thumbs in so they wonât poke holes in the dough. Let dough rest lightly on relaxed fingertips. Be sure all fingers touch equally and softly, working as one. If more tension is on one finger, it is easier to tear the dough. Using either or both methods, gently stretch the dough, always pulling toward yourself and outward. Turn the towel and repeat on the other sides. Keep turning as necessary and gently pull the dough longer and wider, stretching it as thin as possible. This requires some patience (see tip).
Continue to repeat sliding your hands under the dough, slightly lifting, pulling carefully toward your body and out to the sides. Work on all sides to get an even rectangle. Thin spots will start to form, and it is best to leave those alone and move on to the thicker areas. Should the dough tear, repair the hole immediately using dough from the edges, then continue stretching gently. Thin out edges by pulling on them carefully; the edges tend to roll up on their own. In step 13, when finished spreading the filling, there is a reminder simply to cut away thick parts along the edges. These strands can be cut up and used in soup as noodles. - Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375°F. Lightly butter and line the cookie sheet with parchment paper in preparation for baking. Set aside.
- Fill the dough: Mix the sugar into the apple filling. In a separate bowl, melt the butter.
Before spreading the filling, keep in mind that one-third of the strudel dough is buttered only and not filled. This third will be rolled last and become the strudelâs outer layer. On the two long sides, keep filling away from the edge by about ½ inch. On one short side, which will become the center of the rolled strudel, the filling can be spread almost to the edge.
Start by brushing the entire dough with the melted butter, leaving ¼ inch to ½ inch bare on the edges. Beginning from the short end that will be the center of the roll, sprinkle the roasted breadcrumbs onto two-thirds of the buttered dough, keeping away from the long edges by about ½ inch. Spread the apple mixture on top of the breadcrumbs. On each long side, cut away any remaining thick edges, then lift the edge and stretch and fold over the filling by about ½ inch. This seal will keep filling from squeezing out when rolling up the strudel. Also fold the dough over the filling by about ½ inch on the short end that will be rolled up first and become the center of the strudel. - Roll up the strudel: First, beat 1 egg in a small bowl to use as an egg wash in this step and step 12; keep the egg wash on hand. Beginning from the short end covered with filling, the end that will become the center, start rolling up the strudel by lifting the towel and pulling slightly up and forward. Similar to a rug, the strudel will seemingly roll itself up. Stop when you reach the third without filling. Brush the remaining short edge with a little of the egg wash to help seal the seam. Pull this third of the dough up and over the roll. Gently press and make a seal. The strudel will seem huge after rolling up, but when it is baked, the apple filling will shrink considerably.
- Transfer to the prepared cookie sheet: Take the parchment paper off the prepared cookie sheet and slide the parchmentâs long edge partially under the towel the rolled strudel is resting on. Pick up the towel on both sides and let the strudel roll from the towel onto the parchmentâs center, with the strudel lying seam down. If the strudel is too long for the cookie sheet, use the palms of your hands to shape the strudel into a slight crescent. Using the cookie sheet like a large spatula, hold onto a narrow side and lift at a 30-degree angle. Grip the parchment with the strudel on a narrow side and swiftly pull it onto the cookie sheet while simultaneously sliding the sheet under.
- Brush the strudel with the remaining egg wash.
- Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the outside of the strudel has deepened in color to light golden brown. To check doneness, insert a wooden skewer through the strudel. The apples should be soft but not mushy; carefully feel the skewer to ensure the filling is hot. Place sheet on a wire rack and let cool for 15 minutes, then slide the parchment with the strudel off the sheet and onto the cooling rack.
Serve the strudel after letting it cool but while still warm, and dust with powdered sugar or brush with a simple sugar glaze before serving.
Directions for working by hand:
Directions for using a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook:
Make the filling:
Notes
- Tip: Often you will hear that the strudel dough needs to be so thin that a newspaper can be read through it. This is very hard to do without tearing the dough. If you can see the pattern of the dish towel, you did well.
- Note: Instead of almond liqueur or almond extract, the rum from soaking the raisins can be used. Drain the rum from the raisins into a bowl; measure out 2 tablespoons to use as a substitution and discard the rest.