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Reviews

Kiss Boring Brunch Good-Bye at Breakfast Republic

This article is written by a student writer from the Spoon University at UCLA chapter.

It appears as though the 2010s brunch craze was not a fad. A.M. eateries persist, still packed every weekend with hungry extended families and mimosa-seeking millennials. But honestly, I never thought breakfast was a restaurant-worthy meal. I’m a simple start kind of person, usually just fruit and yogurt. If I’m really in the mood, basic scrambled eggs or pancakes are easy enough. So why go to the effort of looking good in the morning and paying too much for breakfast stand-bys?

But on September 28, 2020, my world changed completely.

Picture vegan eggs benedict with blackberry-jalapeno jam and plant-based Italian sausage. Or a shrimp and ricotta frittata. Strawberry Mascarpone French Toast. BREAKFAST BACON MAC & CHEESE. I entered a land known as Breakfast Republic and was never the same again.

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Their innovative menu is the ultimate respite from the hellish mundanity of brunch. It’s still breakfast. But it’s breakfast taken up like twenty degrees. Offerings are unusual yet approachable, plus there is gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options too. Why not have a drink while you ponder the choices? They’ve got sips for every taste: several flavors of kombucha on tap, coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, as well as craft beers and mimosas for those of-age. I got the lip-smacking Honey Almond Latte, a monthly special. Delicate nuttiness dances with the deep warmth of a strong brew, perfectly balanced by honey’s floral sweetness.

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

The Pancake Flight is a great way to start and perfect for sharing. A two-foot-long porcelain surfboard comes crested with any three of their face-sized flapjacks. My eyes went straight to the Strawberry Cheesecake Pancake. Their buttermilk base (the perfect blend of fluff and chew, ideal for sopping up syrup) gets topped with an airy, tangy cream-cheese topping and fresh strawberry slices—a total crowd pleaser. The plant-based Carrot Cake Pancake was a monthly special and the most surprising. Warm spices play with savory notes from the carrot, making for a complex batter. If you’re a texture person, you’ll love its accoutrements: gooey maple glaze bejeweled with toasty chopped walnuts, shredded carrot, and flaked coconut. Ultimately, my number one was definitely the Cinnamon Roll Pancake. Sticky cinnamon icing and crunchy walnuts make for a dessert-like indulgence totally reminiscent of its namesake. Be warned: that starchy goodness is enough to get you stuffed, but be sure to leave room for more. The most important meal of the day deserves a second course.

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Breakfast Republic’s savory bites come in equally generous portions. If it’s a Grand Slam kind of morning, fuel up with one of their fully-loaded omelets or scrambles. Cage-free eggs from a family-owned farm make a clean canvas for blissful combos. The Protein-Lover’s Scramble is a sweet and salty marriage of smoky ham, bacon, and candied “Jurassic Pork” (don’t question, just eat). Laced with the sharp melty cheddar, it’s a carnivore’s delight.

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

A majority of their dishes are things you’d never just whip up for yourself at home. Case in point: the vegan Jammin’ Benny. I had no idea what to expect, but was hooked with one bite. A rich and fluffy plant-based scramble (made from mung bean and shockingly similar to real thing) comes enrobed in über creamy eggless hollandaise. This breakfast beauty lounges on a crumbly Italian “sausage,” with familiar notes of fennel and a peppery kick from red chili flakes. Tempering the umami punch is a spicy/fruity blackberry jalapeño jam, so you can have your eggs, toast, and jelly in one bite. It’s called efficiency, and it’s delicious.

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Don’t forget the potatoes! If you’re a fellow brussels sprouts fanatic, definitely upgrade your potatoes. The vegetal bite of balsamic-charred brussels + salty bacon crumbles + classic creamy yet crunchy home fries is a mind-blowing amalgam. A sprinkle of parm adds to the fresh-fried decadence. Who would have thought to fuse a trendy fine-dining appetizer with humble homestyle spuds? Breakfast Republic, of course.

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

The atmosphere is laid-back, fun, and just a little spunky. Minimalism meets bright pops of color plus tons of rooster and chicken motifs—like Grandma’s house but cool. Small touches of personality abound: chairs made to look like freshly cracked eggs; monthly specials scrawled on butcher paper scrolls; branded plateware with witty epigrams. The bottom of my coffee cup said something along the lines of “There’s definitely alcohol in here.” Not sure this is always the case, but lively 80s dance tracks were setting a fantastic audio backdrop.

Breakfast Republic’s governing policy? Good food that does good. In addition to reusable straws and biodegradable takeout supplies, they repurpose all their food waste as either livestock feed or compost. This costs a lot more than sending it to the dump, but owner Johan Engman (inspired by the green policies of his homeland, Sweden), says, “We want to do our part and be a community leader.” In addition, they’ve committed to donating $1000 each month to nonprofits suggested by customers, complete with an oversized check.

More good news: Breakfast Republic plans to add nine more CA locations (including West L.A. for us Bruins!) and an addition in Texas as well. You could see their logo anywhere though, because they have a huge line of merch. There’s t-shirts, mugs, hats and more, all designed to be items that are funny or just plain cute, appealing to fans and plebs alike. It’s a pretty brilliant branding strategy, and you’ll be seriously tempted to stock up.

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Breakfast Republic
Grace Danon

Engman’s hope is that guests discover something new every time, whether it’s the unique witticisms on every napkin or the hilarious audio reel playing in the restroom. Bolstered by a chef-driven menu, they’ve succeeded in the unthinkable: making breakfast exciting. So the next time someone suggests going out for brunch, I won’t roll my eyes in distaste. I’ll say, “YES PLEASE. But let’s go to Breakfast Republic.”

Special thanks to Johan Engman, Sydney Mishkin, and Megan Row for their help and insight.