The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the views of Spoon University.
If I had a nickel for every outstanding Costa Rican restaurant I’ve tried in Chicago, I’d have a single nickel—there’s only one.
In 1990, owner Henry Cerdas’ parents opened Irazú to pursue his mother’s dream of giving Chicagoans a taste of Costa Rican cuisine. As first-generation immigrants, starting up a business came with challenges. His parents experienced a language barrier with the customers– many of whom lacked any knowledge of Costa Rican culture or even its location on a map. It didn’t help that the area was thought to be “cursed” since so many restaurants were unsuccessful at the address.
Now, 35 years later, Irazú isn’t just still around—it’s thriving. Henry has taken over his parents’ dream and turned it into a passion project of his own. Today, Irazú is a beloved establishment in the Chicago food scene, and a landmark spot in the Bucktown neighborhood.
I got the amazing opportunity to speak with Cerdas and try some of the most popular dishes on Irazú’s menu.
The Chifrijo is a fan-favorite appetizer, and my first bite was enough to make me fall in love with Costa Rican food. As the name suggests, it’s a combination of chicharron (fried pork) and frijoles (beans). There wasn’t a single flavor in this dish I didn’t love, making it my favorite item I tried at Irazú.
The meal is served hot in a bowl with a base of white rice, topped with black beans, pico de gallo and avocado slices. The fried-to-perfection pork bites are the highlight of this dish– crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside. It’s glazed with imported salsa Lizano, a staple sauce of Costa Rica. Though the meal is described as an appetizer, it also makes a great entree for one.
Then there was the steak pepito sandwich, which Cerdas described as “absolutely exquisite.” The thin and juicy steak cuts are served between French bread with caramelized onions, melted cheese and a black bean spread. The steak had a smoky flavor, and the warm caramelized onions complemented the meat perfectly. This dish, alongside the Chifrijo, was featured on the hit Food Network show “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.”
My final dish was “a casado,” the most traditional lunch meal in Costa Rica. The name means “married man” in Spanish. Cerdas explained the commonly accepted story behind the dish: when Costa Rican men went to work in the fields, their wives would pack them this delicious meal, signifying to others they were a married man. In a way, the dish was a rite of passage. The plate is a medley of gallo pinto (rice blended with black beans), meat, fried plantains, caramelized onions, and cabbage salad, all topped with an over-easy egg.
If nothing else gets you hooked on the Costa Rican flavor, these fried plantains will do it. The sweet taste of the warm starchy fruit will melt in your mouth—and that’s only one component of the meal. The gallo pinto, fresh salad, and caramelized onion can be mixed together to create a ‘marriage’ of delicious flavor, each complimenting each other perfectly. The fresh taste of the cabbage salad balances out the smoky seasonings in the gallo pinto, while the savory taste of the juicy meat compliments the sweet taste of the plantains, bringing the dish to a simple but delicious equilibrium.
As a whole, Costa Rican cuisine is influenced by other Latin American flavors, but it’s also uniquely different.
“We’re between our big brother Mexico to the north, all of South America to the south, and we’ve got the Caribbean influences,” Cerdas explained. “Those influences produce a very simple food.”
Especially in the cold winter months, Cerdas thinks the food and atmosphere of his restaurant attracts customers looking for an “escape.” In the summer, customers fill up every seat of their indoor and outdoor dining areas. Now, Cerdas is focused on keeping his prices competitive but profitable.
“We’re not fine dining, but we’re also not a hole-in-the-wall anymore,” he said.
With that in mind, Cerdas continues to sell Costa Rican food at a price that he believes is “still accessible to the majority.” Despite the many challenges of running a restaurant, serving delicious food to the community continues to be his pride and joy.
“This is my passion,” said Cerdas. “This is exactly what I want to do.”