My ongoing search for a truly satisfactory Brazilian meal in the U.S. has become a personal mission of the utmost seriousness. As a relatively niche cuisine outside of Brazil — no offense to my Brazilian family, but how often do you hear someone say they crave feijoada? — you’ll be hard-pressed to find any spots offering authentic pão de queijo and picanha.
So, when I heard that the South American fusion restaurant Brasero promised just that, I knew I had to give it a try. Eager to take full advantage of Northwestern family weekend and indulge in non-dining hall food for once, I dragged my dad and (Brazilian) mom to Chicago’s West Town neighborhood to serve as my assistant reviewers.
Immediately upon stepping foot inside, I was in awe of Brasero’s ambiance. From the wall posters to the menu design, it really did feel like a luxurious dining experience transporting diners to a sleek, contemporary Brazilian lounge. There was also a variety of seating options — elevated booths, a bar and individual tables — which I appreciated.
The service was top-notch. Within a minute of being seated, we had already been poured water, and our server had arrived to explain the menu.
To start, we ordered one pão de queijo each. As a self-proclaimed pão de queijo connoisseur, I was thrilled at the prospect of eating non-frozen or store-bought pão de queijo for the first time in a year. However, these didn’t quite satisfy my craving. They were a bit too doughy and dense, which I attributed to either too much cheese or undercooking. Despite this, I enjoyed the large size and crunchy outer layer. The pão de queijo was also paired with two sauces: apple jam and Catupiry cheese. I found jam to be an odd pairing, but I did like the cheese!
For our main, we ordered the wagyu picanha, opting for medium rather than medium rare. In short, this dish was incredible. Each slice was cooked flawlessly and perfectly seasoned, with a hint of saltiness in every bite that melted in your mouth.
To accompany the picanha, we ordered the coal-roasted sweet potato (left) and paulista fried rice (right). Unfortunately, these dishes weren’t anything to write home about. While the egg was well-seasoned and the pork belly was soft, its meat was too fatty for my taste and the rice was a tad oily. The sweet potato, which I’d seen people rave about on Beli, was overwhelmingly sweet — almost sickening. I appreciated its warmth, and I can see the kind of unique dish Brasero was aiming for, but it ultimately fell flat. The sprinkle of peanuts and pepitas didn’t provide enough of a crunch to offset the mushiness of the potato, and the Catipury cheese added richness when what the dish actually needed was contrast.
Just when things were looking disappointing, our dessert of choice arrived: the coconut soft-serve sundae, topped with chocolate sauce and toasted coconut. This is, undoubtedly, Brasero’s pièce de résistance. Refreshingly cold yet still flavor-packed, the potent coconut flavor complemented the toppings’ crunch marvelously. I’m struggling to describe just how delicious this sundae was, but just know that immediately after devouring it, I texted all of my friends that it was “the best dessert of my life.” It was also generously portioned — easily shareable among three to four people.
Taken as a whole, Brasero is a bit of a mixed bag. Is it a bad meal? No — far from it. But it is a pricey one. These five dishes, including $23 worth of drinks, came out to a whopping $200. As a result, I recommend steering clear of Brasero if you’re a college student on a budget looking to splurge on a nice dinner, as you can find other high-end Chicago restaurants that are more consistently impressive for the same price point.
Still, there’s something undeniably charming about Brasero’s ambiance, and I’d return to try a few more dishes — or, at the very least, to indulge in that coconut sundae again. After all, I personally believe everyone should experience Brazilian cuisine at least once. For all its unevenness, Brasero shines brightest in its atmosphere and desserts, so if you do go, let the vibe set the tone and the sundae seal the deal!