Ever since I first watched Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman dramatically storm and swoon their way through the city that gave the movie Casablanca (1942) its name, visiting Morocco has been a fixation of mine. I was attracted to the glamour and adventure that pop culture representations of this country promised–little did I know that the food was going to be an otherworldly experience in itself.
My (incredibly adventurous) dad and I road-tripped through Casablanca, Rabat, Fez and Tangier, and despite being limited by allergies to numerous spices and herbs, I still managed to taste some of these cities’ finest culinary treasures. Below are some of my favourite food-related experiences; please enjoy my impassioned attempt to promote a country that is equal parts adrenaline rushes and foodgasms.
Casablanca
Our first stop had to be Casablanca. This crazy, chaotic city was a centre for social, political and military action in the Second World War, and is currently home to the third-largest mosque in the world.
I approached Casablanca with a historian’s eyes, but the hopeless romantic, Humphrey Bogart-obsessed side of me couldn’t help but pull us to the 21st-Century restaurant that was created as a replica of the infamous café in the now-iconic 1942 film. This is where our culinary journey started.
The moment I stepped inside Rick’s, I was swept back to a world of glamour and intrigue that the fictional version of the café tried to encapsulate for its guests. Impeccably-dressed waiters led us through the dimly-lit restaurant, which was characterized by mellow lamplight, warm-coloured drapes and 1940s crooners softly cooing love songs from the speakers.
With the 10/10 atmosphere and service came 10/10 food, and the restaurant’s selection of both European and Moroccan dishes presented the problem of choice. In the end, I opted for a hefty chunk of seared foie gras that melted in my mouth, followed by succulent lamb tagine stew with caramelized prunes (pictured above) that took me right to the stars.
After dinner, I had my first taste of proper Moroccan mint tea. I don’t usually like sugary drinks, but something about the combination of fresh mint, sugar, and warm water struck a chord in me. It made me feel warm and happy inside, and it amazed me that something that tasted so good could have so many health benefits. I fell head-over-heels in love.
Rabat
Our next stop was Morocco’s capital, Rabat. Of course, the majestic Mausoleum of Mohammed V and the awe-inspiring Chellah (an ancient archeological site) were wonders to behold, but one of my favourite moments from our stay was the rooftop breakfast we enjoyed at our riad in the Old Medina.
A feast of traditional, homemade bread and pancakes was enjoyed under the morning sun with a pot of fresh yoghurt and a glass of sweet orange juice, and in the silence of the old city I felt a peace that differed greatly from the rush of Casablanca. On this rooftop, far away from loud vendors and the trampling feet of colossal tour groups, I sensed a quasi-cinematic magic.
Fez
After touring the ancient tradition of Rabat, we journeyed to Fez, and there are no words to describe the crazy beauty of Morocco’s cultural capital. From the bustling Medina (formed in the 9th Century and navigable only with the guidance of a professional) to the rolling hills and fortresses that surround it, Fez provides a vast range of experiences.
During our tour of the Medina, we stopped to eat lunch in a restaurant at the very heart of the old town. Here, the chefs made me grilled kebab skewers of chicken and beef (pictured above), which may not look like much but were some of the most delicious pieces of meat I’d ever tasted.
Despite a lack of spices (because–you guessed it!–allergies), the skewers were flavourful and filling, and energized me for the rest of the trek through the busy city centre (which houses the oldest university in the world!).
A surprising discovery we made while walking through the Medina is that nougat is a popular local production. We walked past stalls that held gigantic chunks of the sweet treat, and it was difficult to breeze past without purchasing box after box. Funnily enough, amongst all the smells and sounds of Fes el Bali, the beautiful chunks of nougat were my absolute favourite.
One evening, we ate at a beautiful native restaurant with traditional couches, low tables, and relaxing live music, where I once again ordered a hefty leg of lamb and devoured it completely.
Yet, my favourite part of the meal was the selection of mezze they brought us as a starter. An array of flavours, from mashed eggplant to salted tomato and cucumber, eased my rumbling stomach, and I appreciated the way the dishes tickled, but did not overwhelm, my tastebuds.
Tangier
Our last stop, Tangier, was worlds away from what we’d seen until then. While Casablanca, Rabat and Fez had shown us the majestic history, cultural adventure and local grit that made Morocco so famous, Tangier presented us with a relaxed port city that boasted the ease and elegance of Southern Spain.
During the day, we drove along the idyllic coast, windows down and listening to euphoric summer songs, inhaling the soothing, salty sea air and enjoying the feel of the wind on our faces. In the evening, we sat in the 1920’s-style dining room of the hotel in which Henri Matisse had lived, enjoying live entertainment and gobbling down delicious food.
Unlike at Rick’s in Casablanca, the foie gras here was a cold pâté, and I honestly couldn’t decide which of the two dishes I liked better. As I spread the thick pâté over warm slices of bread, the lamplight glinted off the glittery details of my traditional kaftan, and I felt like the glamorous protagonist of an early 20th century film.
For main course, we always stuck to lamb, because as it turns out, the way they prepare lamb in Morocco is incomparable. The tender, succulent lamb chops were covered in a crispy coat of parmesan, creating an explosion of unforgettable flavours. It’s no wonder we ordered the same thing each night.
And, though I couldn’t actually consume any of the spices, the boxes of bright colours were still a wonder to behold. As we walked through the Medina and enjoyed the warm air and hustle and bustle of the natives going about their day, we were surrounded by the scent of fresh spices that have undoubtedly infiltrated the air for centuries. It was, to put it bluntly, awesome.
Road tripping across Northern Morocco was one of the most exhilarating adventures of my life. Being surrounded by so much history and culture was exciting, liberating and terrifying all at the same time, and as I look back on my time there, the experience still feels surreal. If you get the chance to visit this incredible country, don’t even hesitate–it’ll be a thrill you’ll never forget.