I love saké, so we need to clear up the undeservedly bad rap it gets. Often times suggesting to a group of friends that we crack open a bottle of saké with dinner tends to receive a response that falls in between suggesting we take vodka shots for dessert and that we swig absinthe straight out of the bottle. But saké is an incredibly flavorful, easy-to-drink alcohol that works as well with a meal as a glass of wine. C'mon people — it's time to get edusakeated.
A good friend of mine used to work at one of Manhattan's largest liquor stores, and every few weeks when we'd get together for dinner she'd bring over an old, rare bottle of wine or some type of funky cordial that I'd never heard of. One night's theme was a saké face off (with Japanese style salmon, of course, pictured above), and — after drinking the equivalent of a whole bottle each — my inner alcohol nerd was highly intrigued that the sakés I had tried were night-and-day different. True to form, I decided to go full scorched-earth on my saké streak, and try my hardest to become a bona fide expert.
What is Saké, Anyway?
Basically, saké is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting rice. The process is actually quite similar to making wine and beer, so that's strike number one for the myth it's some crazy strong spirit like vodka or tequila. Essentially, the outer husk of the rice is polished down to make the inner grains of starch easier to break down, and the amount of husk removed (called the "grade" of polishing) results in all different kinds of flavor notes and characteristics. With me so far?
I could wax poetic about all the different grades and styles, but I'll stick to two types of saké: junmai style and honjozo style. Junmai saké has at least 30% of the husk removed and is brewed using only rice, water, and koji mold (yum!) that catalyzes the fermentation process. Junmai sakés tends to be quite mellow and tame, with incredibly smooth finishes depending on how highly milled the rice is. Honjozo style saké has a little brewer's alcohol added to kickstart the process, and tends to be more fragrant, floral, and a bit more complex.
OK, That's Great. Who Makes It?
Of course, I couldn't keep my hands to myself: It just so happened that Brooklyn Kura in Industry City, New York's first saké brewery and tap room(!) opened its doors last month, and I had the chance to sneak in and talk to Brian Polen, one of the co-founders, about the emerging craft saké scene. He started brewing saké at home in 2013 after meeting his business partner in Japan, and found the results tasted... well, pretty good. So, he leapt at the opportunity to fill an empty niche in the market.
Remember when I said saké gets an undeservedly bad rap for being too intense? Well, he agrees, but only because most people haven't been exposed to good saké. The stuff you've most likely smelled in a sushi joint is cheap table saké that's "astringent and boozy" without any of the delicate flavors I mentioned above. So, after years of training, Brian and his partner Brandon opened the brewery to appeal to the market of knowledgeable drinkers who are already used to high-quality craft beer and fine wines (am I lumping myself into this category? yikes!) Brooklyn Kura even serves their saké in wine glasses to hit home the idea that saké can be familiar and accessible.
So, It's Sushi Time, Right?
This was the best part of my saké crash course: it's so much more than just an accompaniment for sushi. While it is a great pairing (champagne also apparently works pretty well?), saké's crisp, delicate flavor goes well with just about anything rich, umami or salty. You know what that means — bar snacks.
Sounds like time for saké happy hour if you ask me. Saka Mai on the Lower East Side features the "Soul of Saké" event on Monday nights, and each week the bar features a different saké and oyster pairing, in addition to bar snacks that play nice with saké's flavors. Duck prosciutto with dried figs was definitely a winner. Even Brooklyn Kura pairs their sakés with cheese and charcuterie.
I'm not even ashamed to admit I've tried pairing saké with bacon — now that is something.