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Eating With Pride: The History Of Queer Food Culture

When you walk into a queer-owned café during Pride Month, you might find rainbow-frosted cupcakes, colorful fruit salads, or glitter lattes, but queer food culture is more than just spectacle. It is deeply rooted in tradition shaped by resistance, reinvention, and community. Queer communities have used food to carve out space, build found-families, and express identities from their very own kitchen to restaurants and underground supper clubs. 

From pop-up dinner parties to historic gay bars that served meals through the threat of police raids in the 60’s, food has long been a vessel of expression and resilience in queer life. At the intersection of queer culture and cuisine lies a rich, often overlooked story — one where dining is both survival and celebration.

The History Of Queer Culture In Dining

Starting in the early 20th century, cafeterias and self-service automats became a popular hub for gay men to build community while remaining discreet as homosexuality was still illegal. These institutions became places of complete anonymity because of the laissez-faire environment and little staff. Yes, people have always been gay, but these places, which allowed the community to remain incognito, are what started to bring queer language onto the radar in big cities, allowing the genesis of LGBTQ+ movements to bloom. 

Flash forward to the 1960’s, and we have the famous Stonewall Inn. This inn was a gay bar that, like many at the time, was operated with Mafia involvement. After the end of Prohibition in the 1930’s, the New York State Liquor Authority prohibited the serving of alcohol in “disorderly” establishments. As you might imagine, a gay bar was considered to be the definition of “disorderly” so this led to routine police raids. This did not stop the patrons of Stonewall. Regular customers alongside other members of the LGBTQ+ community and even supportive local residents of Greenwich Village stood in confrontation with the police. Beer cans were tossed, punches were thrown, and many were arrested, but this uprising was a powerful catalyst for the future of LGBTQ+ civil rights movements across the country. Many years later in 1990, the property of the Stonewall Inn was leased to a new bar called New Jimmy’s. This name, however, was quickly changed back to Stonewall because the new owner, Jimmy Pisano, recognized the significance of the location. Stonewall still stands tall as a symbol for queer empowerment as it is the home of one of the most influential sites in the history of the LGBTQ+ community. 

Queer-Owned Dining

Beyond famous gay bars like Stonewall, it is equally important to recognize the queer-owned institutions that are not “inherently gay” as a way to support the LGBTQ+ community this pride month.  

In 1972, Dolores Alexander and Jillian Ward opened the very first queer-owned feminist restaurant with the name Mother Courage. This restaurant, while open for everyone, served as a safe haven for women, especially lesbian women, to dine without fear of being hassled. Mother Courage was said to be for “feminists and their friends.” Alexander and Ward faced backlash as restaurant ownership was said to be a “man’s business” but they persevered. Not only was Mother Courage a powerful implementation in the feminist movements of the 70’s, but it also gave lesbian women the community that had long been around for gay men through the rising popularity of gay bars. 

Nowadays, queer-owned restaurants are much more present. During Pride Month, many restaurants jump on the rainbow bandwagon, but the best spots dig deeper. Queer-owned establishments often use the spotlight to uplift each other, highlight LGBTQ+ history, and sometimes donate proceeds to fund organizations supporting trans youth (MOD Pizza, Shake Shack), BIPOC queer communities (Mis Tacones, Little Barn Coffee House), and more. When reserving your table this June, OpenTable has regionally curated lists of Queer-owned restaurants in the US.

Queer Cultural Events In Dining

Across the country, queer dining events have become more than just food experiences. They’re spaces of celebration, community-building, and creative expression. From drag diners to pop-up bake sales, these events are cooking up something way deeper than just a good meal. 

It wouldn’t be a queer dining roundup without drag brunch. Starting with roots in the underground LGBTQ+ clubs of the 1980s and 1990s, drag brunch has now gone mainstream. These events are part cabaret, part comfort food, part community hub.

Between the 1950s and the 1970s, drag was brought to gay bars, which were becoming mainstream at this time. While it was dangerous for someone to step out of their house in full drag, it was considered acceptable to wear a full beat to go to the bar. And that is just what they did. So, drag queens hosted performances at these gay bars and once they learned they could make a profit, the rest was history. After Prohibition, members of the upper-class discovered the only place where it was acceptable to get their booze on while the sun was still out — brunch. Drag queens wanted to perform, rich people wanted to pay. This was the perfect potion for the birth of the beloved drag brunch. Not only did it create an exciting and new experience for the people who were paying, but it also allowed it to be socially acceptable for these queens to step into drag before dark. Drag brunches both brought drag to the big screen and created an empowering environment for drag queens to serve.  

You can check out some of the fan favorite drag brunches in the U.S. here, but you may be able to find some near your very own home town if you know where to look. Just remember to tip your queens, order pancakes, and keep in mind: this is queer joy in action. 

Dining With Intention

At its heart, Pride is about liberation. Food is a love language that the queer community has mastered by using it to resist and rebuild, so every time you gather around a table, whether a noisy gay bar or a tiny pop-up in someone’s backyard, you are taking the opportunity to reclaim joy on our own terms.

So, this Pride Month, dine out with purpose. Celebrate queer flavors, queer chefs, queer joy. Afterall, no revolution is complete without something delicious to eat!

Molly Duffy

Villanova '27

Molly Duffy is a member of the Spoon University National Writer Program, covering current food news and trends.

Outside of Spoon, Molly is in her sophomore year at Villanova University pursuing a bachelor's degree in English and Communications with a focus on Journalism. Molly writes for the opinion section of her college's student-run newspaper, The Villanovan, where she covers her opinion on trends around campus and acts as a representative of the student body.

In her free time, Molly loves to read and hangout with friends. She is an expert on popular thriller novels, but also likes to stick her nose in a good classic every once in a while. With her friends, she enjoys trying new restaurants and will never pass up the opportunity for chips and guac.