Within the food industry, there is always controversy over what is considered cultural appropriation and appreciation. First, I will give fundamental definitions of the terms I will use in this article.
What is “appropriation”? How does it apply to food?
Appropriation, by definition, is the action of taking something for one’s use, typically without the owner’s permission. When it comes to food and we are engaging with other cultures, we should not pretend they are our own.
For example, a white woman goes to an Indian restaurant and tries a new dish that she loves- let’s say it is a masala dosa. If she goes home and prepares her own masala dosa with new spices and ingredients and claims it as her own, this is clearly problematic.
Additionally, the same idea is present when it comes to preparing a dish and claiming that it is better than the original dish. In both of these scenarios, the person is appropriating the culture behind the dish itself and is being ignorant by not acknowledging that. For the most part, Westerners are actively benefiting from these experiences, but may not be respecting these cultures in the process.
What is “appreciation”? How does it apply to food?
Appreciation, by definition, is the recognition and enjoyment of the good qualities of someone or something or a complete understanding of something. Primarily, frequently appropriated foods come from countries of typically less power. Over time this has changed, and some of these countries have risen to power, but the problem is still prevalent.
In the same example as presented earlier, another white woman goes to an Indian restaurant and tries the same dosa. If she goes home and prepares her dosa and does research on the history and culture that it came from, this is appreciation.
She acknowledges that the food she tried and loved is indeed not her own. Suppose that, she posts on a blog or Instagram about this dish while referencing the culture, restaurant, and history. This is an example of how she shows her appreciation for the dish and the cultural practices that accompany it.
What is the difference?
The colonizer (the person participating in publicizing the food) is educated on the culture and history of the food enough to portray or engage with it accurately; cultural food colonialism is not morally problematic. The main difference between the two is the intent of the “colonizer.” Additionally, learning about the cultures behind the food itself can make the ignorance of appropriation into appreciation. The purpose behind the gesture is what matters and differentiates between appropriation and appreciation. If the intention is to educate and learn about the culture and practices and successfully portray that to another audience- food or other practices- then it can be viewed as appreciation. On the other hand, if the intention is to one-up or be better than the original practices, then there is a moral disconnect, and it is appropriation.
The main difference between the two is the intent of the “colonizer.” Additionally, learning about the cultures behind the food itself can make the ignorance of appropriation into appreciation. The purpose behind the gesture is what matters and differentiates between appropriation and appreciation. If the intention is to educate and learn about the culture and practices and successfully portray that to another audience- food or other practices- then it can be viewed as appreciation. On the other hand, if the intention is to one-up or be better than the original practices, then there is a moral disconnect, and it is appropriation.
How can I prevent the appropriation of food?
On the other hand, if the intention is to one-up or be better than the original practices, then there is a moral disconnect, and it is appropriation.
If you have made these mistakes, do not worry. As long as you educate yourself and others on the cultural practices behind the foods you are publicizing, you are not in the wrong. Next time you go to a restaurant and try food from a culture that is not your own, try to learn about it! Dive into the history of the food and how it came to be. Being open to and trying new foods is a way to educate oneself, so you can’t adventure food without learning about its cultural context.