From the ruins of Pompey to the harboring coasts of ancient Ostia, food has long been a staple of historical civilizations. Food is how we survive. Food is how we live. Food is how we love. Food is our history.
So, let us not only remember the ways in which our ancestors ate, but may we taste the bearings of their work. Lucky for us, the Romans compiled a cookbook of their greatest recipes in the 5th century CE. De re Culinaria, more commonly known as Apicus, is a semi-complete list of famous Roman recipes. While the author of the cookbook is still unknown, the only clue to its literary father is scrawled in the corners of its pages, reading "Api Cae." Historians have concluded that it could belong to a number of different authors, while others believe it to be a Homeric legend.
History aside, let us indulge in these ancient recipes.
1. Posca
Posca is an ancient Roman drink originally created for soldiers while away at battle. Drinking high-quality wine was both indecent and unavailable. Therefore, this "second-to-best" option appeared. Posca is more a vinegar than a wine, as it is a 1:2 ratio of red wine vinegar to water. This liquid mixture gets boiled alongside crushed coriander and a heavy dosage of honey. Once cooled, it is ready to drink!
After some experimentation, I can best relate the taste of Posca to an un-carbonated kombucha. After the initial sour, it was quite pleasant with a meal, the honey leaving a sweet, yet tangy taste along my tongue.
2. Patina de Piris, Pear Souffle
Also known as Pear Souffle, Patina de Piris was a traditional Roman dessert. But do not let the sugary taste of the word "dessert" fool you. For this dish, like many others, consists of coriander, oil, eggs, pepper, wine, cumin, and garum.
This is where you may ask, what exactly is garum?
Lovely question, unpleasant answer: fish sauce. Different dishes required different garum consistency. Some needed only the oils, while others needed bone, tail, and all. Lucky for us, Patina de Piris simply requires half a teaspoon of the liquid.
As for the actual preparation, once the pears have been cored and boiled, per Apicus' instructions, they are then "pounded" with spices and eggs, then cooked thoroughly until the eggs have taken a sponge-like texture. Once cooked, it can be served with sweet wine, a very important distinction, and a thick drizzle of honey. Perhaps not our traditional dessert, but a dessert nonetheless.
3. In Mitulis, Sea Mussels
Mussels have long been a delicacy of both the sea and stomach, for they are served in almost every $$$ restaurant. Often served in heaps of butter, garlic, and parsley, the Romans served the exact recipe almost 2,000 years ago from today. Alright, maybe not the exact same recipe. But similar enough.
And like every great Italian recipe, we start with wine. White wine, to be specific. Next, you're going to want to fry up a branch or two of leeks and dice about half an onion. Boil them with some passum, cumin, and oil, then add the scrubbed-out mussels. Once the shells open up, they're ready! Your breath will smell of onion, and your house will smell of fish, but your belly will be happy nonetheless.
4. Mustacei, Must Rolls
These rolls are a must at your next dinner gathering. And I'm not just saying that because that's what they are called. No, this is quite a different must, if you will. For these rolls are made with young red wine. Or rather, the nasty bits that gather at the top, frothing over the edge. That is called the must. Also, what makes these rolls a must.
We must begin with the must (alright, I'll stop). Pour a cup over a heap of flour, adding cumin and anise seeds. Then, fold the cheese and lard in equal parts. The Romans would have used organic animal lard, typically from the fat of a pig. Considering the availability of wild pigs in South Jersey, you can just use a good 'ole can of Crisco. Knead this together until it becomes dough. Distribute into small rounds, placing a dry bay leaf under each ball. Bake until golden brown, and enjoy, if you must. (I made no promises).
5. Dulcia Domestica, Domestic Desserts
Let us end with a recipe worth stomaching, for this dessert can still be found in Italian homes today. While the Romans used any dried stone fruit, dates were widely preferred. The dates would be pitted and then stuffed with an assortment of nuts. Place the stuffed fruit into a pan and boil in honey-sweetened wine.
And you're done. That's it! I know; I saved the easiest and yummiest sounding one for last. No fish bones or unexpected vinegar. Just tipsy dates!
Thank you for joining our historical exploration of ancient Roman sweets, treats, and more! What recipe are you willing to try?