I was lucky enough to spend a semester abroad in Seville, struggling to improve my Spanish. However, if I came for Spanish, I stayed for the food (and my host family). After spending nearly 4 months here, talking and eating my way through the city, these are the 15 places I humbly recommend.
1. La Brunilda
I will always say yes to La Brunilda. It would be a crime to come to Seville and not eat here. Locals and foreigners flock to this trendy tapas restaurant because of the incredible food at very reasonable prices. Specials are changed daily, but frequently overlooked as the menu itself carries interesting variations on typical dishes. An absolute must is ordering (if you have room) torrijas for dessert.
Need (the best) cake (ever) and coffee? Beer and popcorn? The name is challenging, especially when you are trying to shovel the banana toffee or blueberry cream cake into your mouth. The penny-lined walls and the sewing machine-tables add to the charm of this tiny gem. Friendly bartenders and a cozy ambiance make this the perfect place to chill, read, and drink.
3. La Azotea
Seville is brimming with trendy tapas bars, as long as you know where to look. La Azotea has three locations, my favorite being the location behind the Cathedral. Like La Brunilda, locals flock there and the wait can be quite long. It is worth the wait, however, for the shrimp and avocado salad and life changing chocolate soufflé.
4. Milk Away
Studying in Seville, one quickly learns that fruit, vegetables, and otherwise healthy options are not common. In comes Milk Away, a small store with an even smaller storefront that will have a huge impact on your time here. For a price depending on size, you can make your own smoothie, yogurt bowl or salad. All the produce is local unless otherwise written on the door. You can also add chia seeds, almond butter, or oat milk. Do not be surprised if you find yourself going every day.
An odd but successful mixture, this Peruvian-Japanese tapas bar is hidden away, usually eliminating the chance of a wait. Reasonable prices coupled with a delicious twist on tapas makes this place worth a visit. There is a wide selection of Japanese beers, jamón sushi and ceviche del barco, a must order if you take the short walk from the center.
You will find different versions of (red) sangria all around Seville, all varying in alcohol content and price. At a whopping 6 euros, the sangria at SOJO promises bang for your buck. The large wine glass is filled with healthy servings of 3 different alcohols, plus a bottle of tinto de verano, another refreshing and slightly alcoholic beverage Sevillanos drink like water.
Need a super healthy meal? Milk Away closes at 9, meaning salads and smoothies are not available for dinner in the Spanish world. However, Fargo’s menu boasts an impressive selection of salads as well as healthy grain and meat options. A perfect spot for when you realize you’ve eaten chocolate con churros as a merienda for the past 6 days.
While I am not a huge ice cream fan, I can comfortably say that Rayas is the best ice cream I have ever eaten, even with my soft spot for Häagen Dazs. You will be overwhelmed by the many options, but you must, even if you don’t order it, try Napolitana. It tastes like coffee cake in ice cream form.
While I will forever be a die-hard Brunilda fan, Ovejas Negras has the best mushroom risotto I have ever tried, and I hate mushrooms. There is also a pizza focaccia and an eggplant panini, both of which I shared reluctantly. Get there early – for Spanish dinner standards – because popular dishes run out fast.
10. Dulce Regina
While there are pastries on pastries in Spain, a simple chocolate chip cookie is nearly impossible to find (forget about cookie dough). However, the humble Dulce Regina makes homemade cookies everyday, and not just chocolate chip, but triple chocolate, lemon pistachio, oatmeal raisin and more. The deal is one cookie for one euro or six for five to “share.” I am not good at sharing.
11. La Mamela
Do not be fooled by the marquee that labels La Mamela the “ostras y cervezas” bar. While the menu is not extensive, there is a lot to be discovered. Things to order include the “Black Salad,” a rice dish that looks terrifying and tastes delicious, and sirloin with pear and gorgonzola gnocchi. If you feel like splurging on good seafood, definitely give La Mamela a try.
12. Ruko Rock Bar
During your first few days in Seville, you will undoubtedly find yourself drinking in Plaza Alfalfa. Of the bars that line the street, Ruko Rock is commonly known as a bar Americans frequent. It is a prime spot to meet people from other programs and get cheap drinks. This is the place to start your night after you finish botellóning, with shots at 2 euros and a glass of tinto de verano at 1.5.
Peanut butter in Europe is like a diamond, rare and expensive. Being nearly impossible to find, I was willing to walk miles to whichever grocery store carried it. Holland and Barrett is a health food store (think child of GNC and Whole Foods), complete with protein powder, vitamins, and all kinds of nut butter. Peanut butter is especially prized in Spain, because as Americans adjusting to the strange meal times, having PB to keep you full is ideal. Plus if you are ever missing some classy American food, PB & J is always an option.
14. Patas de Gallo
This place is a hidden gem when your wallet is hurting, which it usually is when being abroad. A special shout out to any Marvel enthusiasts, as the walls are covered in comic book superheroes. While smaller, the menu includes everything from goat cheese lollipops (Odin’s beard!) to seared duck (Sweet Christmas!). Good food and cheap wine along with friendly service makes this the perfect place to save your day.
15. La Churreria
A churro option had to be mentioned. Churros will become a special part of your diet in Spain. Chocolate con churros is the ideal drunk food to absorb the absurd amount of alcohol you will drink. There are many churrerias around Seville, but my personal favorite is the churro stand right by the Puente de Triana. Open all hours of the night, the chocolate is as thick as a melted Hershey bar, but better, because european chocolate.
While these are the places I frequented, honorable mentions include: Torch, El Viajero Sedentario, Duo Tapas, and El Mercado de Triana.
Enjoy Seville, or, Buen viaje!